What is Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5?
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 (trade name EYESERYL, sequence Ac-βAla-His-Ser-His) is a synthetic acetylated tetrapeptide developed by Lipotec (now Lubrizol) as a cosmetic active ingredient targeting the periorbital region. It is one of the most successful eye-area cosmetic peptides in the global skincare market, formulated into eye creams, serums, and gels for anti-puffiness, dark circles, and under-eye wrinkles.
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 is classified as a cosmetic ingredient (not a drug). It is widely available in commercial skincare products and is also sold as a research compound for formulation development.
Structure
The peptide contains four amino acid residues with N-terminal acetylation:
- β-Alanine (β-Ala) — non-canonical amino acid, provides metabolic stability
- Histidine (His)
- Serine (Ser)
- Histidine (His)
- N-acetylation at the β-Ala N-terminus
Acetylation prevents enzymatic degradation by aminopeptidases and improves topical formulation stability.
Mechanism of Action
The mechanism centers on two effects relevant to eye-area aesthetics:
Reduction of vascular leakage:
- Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 has been shown to inhibit angiotensin-converting enzyme (ACE)-related processes that contribute to local vascular permeability
- Reduced leakage of fluid and red blood cell breakdown products into perivascular tissue
- Net effect: less puffiness, less dark coloration from hemoglobin breakdown
Reduction of protein glycation:
- The peptide modulates non-enzymatic glycation of dermal proteins
- Reduced advanced glycation end products (AGEs) preserve elastin and collagen integrity
- Net effect: smoother, less crepey periorbital skin texture
Cosmetic Use
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 is incorporated into eye-area products at typical concentrations of 1-10% Eyeseryl solution (where the solution itself contains 0.5-1% peptide). Marketed for:
- Under-eye puffiness and bags
- Dark circles (particularly vascular-pattern dark circles)
- Fine lines and crepey texture in the periorbital region
- Post-procedure recovery (post-laser, post-microneedling)
Clinical studies (typically 2-4 weeks of twice-daily application) have shown measurable reductions in periorbital edema and improvements in dark circle appearance. Effects are modest but consistent and have driven commercial success.
Place in Cosmetic Peptide Family
Eyeseryl is one of several cosmetic peptides marketed for the periorbital region:
| Peptide | Trade Name | Mechanism | Target |
|---|---|---|---|
| Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 | Eyeseryl | Vascular leakage + glycation | Puffiness, dark circles |
| Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2 | Uplevity | Thymopoietin-mimetic | Firmness |
| Acetyl Hexapeptide-30 | Inyline | NMJ blockade | Crow's feet (expression lines) |
| Argireline (Acetyl Hex-3/8) | Argireline | SNARE complex disruption | Forehead/glabellar lines |
| Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 | Rigin | NF-κB inhibition | Inflammation, age spots |
These peptides are often combined in multi-peptide eye creams for synergistic effects.
Safety Profile
Topical application of Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 has an excellent safety profile in clinical and post-market data:
- No documented systemic absorption (low molecular weight but high charge profile prevents transdermal penetration to clinically meaningful levels)
- Rare contact irritation, generally mild
- No known interactions with prescription medications
- Suitable for sensitive skin
Note on Cosmetic vs Drug Status
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 is sold globally as a cosmetic ingredient. Cosmetic regulations vary by jurisdiction:
- US: regulated by FDA as a cosmetic; cannot make therapeutic claims
- EU: regulated under cosmetic regulation 1223/2009
- Asia: varying cosmetic and quasi-drug classifications
Its inclusion in our peptide database reflects its chemical structure (defined synthetic peptide) and prominence in the peptide-research community, not a clinical therapeutic indication.